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La cérémonie du Kōdō, ou l’art du parfum au Japon
L'univers EstébanAug 22, 20226 min read

The Kōdō ceremony, or the art of incense in Japan

There are civilizations whose codes and traditions span the ages. Japanese civilization is one of them. Renowned for its refinement, precision, and delicacy, Japanese culture holds hidden treasures that only a handful of initiates know, master, and perpetuate. Thanks to strong ties with Nippon Kōdō, a Japanese incense brand since 1575, Estéban had the privilege of attending a most confidential ritual: the kōdō ceremony (literally, "the way of incense"). This ancestral art, based on olfaction and concentration, was once practiced by samurai before battle, Zen monks, and some members of the Imperial Court. Let's look back at a fascinating and intimate initiation…

cérémonie du kōdō

The birth of Kōdō art:

The kōdō ceremony is considered the third (and probably the most difficult) of the three traditional Japanese arts, after the flower ceremony (kadō) and the tea ceremony (chadō). This seemingly simple activity (smelling and appreciating the fragrance emanating from heated precious woods) is highly codified: words, gestures, and attitudes have a very specific role, inherited from several centuries of practice (likely formalized around the 16th century, although incense was introduced to Japan as early as the 6th century). Incense, in general, is an integral part of the Japanese art of living, whether it's for perfuming rooms and clothes or paying homage to ancestors.

Brûle-encens en métal et coffret d’encens Nippon Kōdō
Metal incense burner and Nippon Kōdō incense box (© Nippon Kodo. Co., Ltd )

While the practice of kōdō enjoyed some popularity in the last century, it is now particularly confidential, especially since its learning in Japan is only provided by two schools: the Oie school, with a very artistic approach, and the Shino school, with a more spiritual approach. Each of these schools has only one "grand master," a title and vocation passed down through generations for 500 years, as are the raw materials they handle: some woods used in these ceremonies are centuries old. Imagine the emotion one can feel experiencing the same sensory experience as a shogun*, a poet, or an aristocrat of the time. This is an emotional journey for which no one can be prepared.

encens et kodo
(© Wie Sunghwan)

*shogun: High-ranking samurai

The trail of a treasure:

The origin of kōdō is shrouded in mystery… Legend has it that a perfumed wood stump – probably jinko – washed ashore on Awaji Island in 595, and that fishermen, fascinated by the almost supernatural smell emanating from fragments thrown into the fire, hastened to offer it to the emperor. Some of these woods, preserved for 1,000 years, are still among the riches of the Imperial Court where they continue to inspire admiration and covetousness. And for good reason, the precious woods used in this type of ceremony are true treasures: the price of the rarest essences can reach €850 per gram, which further adds to the prestige of this ceremony, reserved for major events and honored guests.

bois d'encens du kodo
Fragment of incense wood used during the ceremony

Playing to learn to smell:

The practice and discovery of kōdō are most often done through "games" that help to familiarize oneself with the different essences of perfumed wood, with the aim of memorizing them. There are nearly 300 games, but the "Genji-ko" (the one we participated in) is certainly the best known, as it is based on another monument of Japanese culture: "The Tale of Genji," an 11th-century collection of poems recounting the lives of courtiers of the time.

poèmes japonais Dit de Genji
The Tale of Genji (© Nippon Kodo. Co., Ltd)

Each chapter of this collection is illustrated visually, by a calligraphic symbol, and olfactorily, by a combination of precious woods. Indeed, during the preparation of the game, the master of ceremony chooses 5 different incense wood essences, cuts each into 5 pieces, and then places the 25 fragments in paper envelopes. The 5 envelopes to be used for the day's ceremony are then selected. Mathematically, there are 52 possible wood combinations – as many as the number of chapters contained in The Tale of Genji (excluding introduction and conclusion).

The goal of the game? To recognize the nature of each smelled wood thanks to its fragrance in order to state the correct combination (and therefore, the correct chapter). The 5 pieces can come from the same wood, all be different, or be partially identical (some coming from the same stumps and others not). While the plot is stimulating, the task is no less arduous…

Kōdō, A highly codified ceremony:

encens en préparation
Preparation of the censers by the master of ceremony

If we speak of "listening" to incense, rather than "smelling" it, it is to evoke the concentration necessary for this exercise, comparable to that which the listening of a barely audible sound would impose on us. The perfume of these precious woods is so subtle that its appreciation is done through a precise ceremonial that participants observe with the greatest respect.

The course of the game

  1. To begin, the master of ceremony prepares the censers that will hold the wood fragments "listened to" during the session: ceramic vessels inside which a piece of charcoal is placed, immediately covered with ashes (to preserve its incandescence). Placed in balance at the top of the ash dome, a mica plate serves as a base for the incense wood, which thus diffuses its fragrant trail without burning.
l'encens est installé sur des plaques de mica
Installation of mica plates on top of the censers / Monkô gestures
- listening to incense (© Nippon Kodo. Co., Ltd)
  • Once the first incense burner is assembled, the master of ceremony hands it to the first guest who "appreciates" it before placing it on a square of fabric in front of them - a sign, for the next participant, that they can then take the object themselves. And so on for all participants. Five incense holders circulate in this manner in a precise order, until all guests have become acquainted with the fragrant woods randomly selected by the grand master.
parfum de l'encens
Master of ceremony "appreciating" the fragrance of one of the censers before circulating it
The right gesture:

To "appreciate" the incense at its true value, a specific gesture should be adopted:

> First, grasp the vessel with your right hand and place it on your left palm,

> Ensure that the "listening line"* of the vessel is facing you.

> Hermetically cover the ash dome with your right hand, while leaving a gap between the thumb and forefinger to form a 'fragrance chimney' up to your nose.

> Finally, take 3 deep breaths (and no more) of the emanating fragrance, being careful to exhale to the side (always to the right), so as not to disturb the wisps of smoke.


  • Finally, each guest gives their answer about the different woods smelled, indicating on a pre-filled scroll the combination they believe they have identified – and this, through the famous calligraphic symbols (e.g., if the first 4 woods smelled seem similar, and the 5th different, you must choose the symbol that shows 4 connected sticks at the top and the 5th stick alone (reading from left to right)):
explications du grand maître
Explanation of symbol reading by the Grand Master / Participant searching for the symbol corresponding to their answer among the 52 existing symbols.
  • All answers are then collected and recorded on a scroll by a calligrapher, who also tallies the points. The master then reveals the correct answer, and the participant with the highest score (i.e., the greatest number of correctly identified wood essences) receives the scroll as a gift. An honor we had the privilege of receiving, thanks to the expertise of our on-site team.
inscription des réponses sur un parchemin
Calligrapher listing the answers given on a scroll / Winner of the game, receiving the scroll as a gift
  • Following this award ceremony, the host of the ceremony greets all guests, who also bow their heads, hands joined, in deference. The kōdō ceremony is officially closed. Everyone leaves with a smile, delighted to have shared this moment of concentration and refinement, in the presence of other fragrance enthusiasts. Could the greatest 'magical power' of incense not be its ability to bring together individuals from all walks of life, in a shared surge of spirituality? After experiencing this, we are intimately convinced...
exemple de calligraphies japonaises
Ink stamps used during the ceremony / Example of Japanese calligraphy (© Nippon Kodo. Co., Ltd)

Let's continue the emotional journey

The incense ritual, more than a tradition, is a true experience for the senses and the soul. With its wide variety of Japanese incense, Estéban prolongs refinement and constantly renews your scented ambiance. Our Japanese incenses are made in Japan, from natural raw materials: spices, fragrant woods, roots, plants, vegetable resins, among others, which are finely ground then mixed with water and a vegetable binder. Their quality comes from a balance between ancestral know-how and more recent technological research. When burning, incense has the power to create an atmosphere conducive to well-being and relaxation; once burned, it leaves a fragrant trail for several hours. Think of it on your next trip; your hotel room or vacation home will feel more familiar...